Iceland
March 2010
Page 1
The build-up to our planned week in Iceland was relatively eventful. Not only was I struggling to shake a month-long on-and-off heavy cold (if I never have throbbing earache again it will be too soon), but an Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajokull (at the time, relatively unheard of outside Iceland, but it became both ubiquitous and infamous in April) erupted the weekend before the Wednesday (24th March) we were due to fly to Reykjavik. As if to emphasise the relatively desolate nature of Iceland, only 500 people were evacuated, as scientists swarmed round the eruption for data.
Never mind science, though - we were in desperate need of a holiday. Flights from Manchester to Iceland (via Glasgow, grrr) seemed to be four times a week, as we began to track them on the internet. But Monday's flights (there or back) were indefinitely postponed and the signs did not look good - we prepared contingency plans (along the lines of: "we could do something else?"... "yeah maybe"). On Tuesday, however, flights to and from London did seem operational, and suddenly the holiday was looking like it was back on. Sure enough, Wednesday's flight from Manchester to Iceland (via Glasgow, grrr) left on time (give or take).
Incidentally, Eyjafjallajokull means island-mountain glacier (according to Wikipedia).
OK, enough text; time for some photos. This is the view from our hotel window. Ugly building, car park, main road... but in the distance, sea and mountains! That'll do us.
More soon. I promise I won't take as long next time.
And indeed the next day I continue. To write stuff for this website. Here is another stunning shot of the slums we resided in, or the Radisson Blu 1919 Hotel as we (and they) liked to call.
After a swift check-in, we head out but for some reason, not sure how, we end up in a shop. It doesn't take Lynne long to pull a local, who has the horn (but not two horns, alas).
One couldn't help but think that might make a fine present for Mr Rowllings. It was a bit pricey, though, so we didn't bother.
But you can shop anywhere. What you can't see anywhere are sights like this.
That'll do for now - the snooker's on.
Some time later, I get back to this page... now where was I? And indeed where were we?
Moving along the water's edge, we came to a standard tourist picture from the front of the guide, one of a wooden Viking boat, which I replicated.
Heading up the hill and looking back gave a long-distance view of the ocean and mountains.
Hallgrimskirkja (or Hallgrim's Church), the tallest church in Iceland, was at the top of the hill. We didn't go in this time.
In front of Hallgrim's Church, the statue of Leif Erikson stands proudly. He was an Icelandic/Norwegian explorer and the first European thought to have landed in North America. Apparently it was a gift from the US for the 1930 Alρing Milennial Festival, which marked the 1000th anniversary of Iceland's parliament (it says here).
This was the building on the main road we crossed to head to the main bars in Reykjavik - I think it was a government building.
Further down the road, towards the harbour, there was another statue on the top of a small hill (a hillock?)...
...which gave a view of the odd-looking tourist building.
There was a splendid lake heading a little out of town...
...which was teeming with birds.
On the left in the lake shot above you can see a church, shown here a bit closer, with an art museum next to it, almost looking like part of the same building from this angle.
By the lake, the sound of a band practising (the drums anyway) could be heard from within a hexagon-shaped building, the information board beside which has the name Hijómskálagardurinn, but I can't find that on the internet. Oh well.
On the other side of the lake, it wasn't far from the domestic airport. We later found out on one of the tours that this airport was built by the British during the second world war. The national airport, at Kevflavik around 40 minutes down the road, was built by the US during the same war (despite there already being an airport). Typical Yanks - had to do a bigger version.
It could be safely said that Lynne very much enjoyed the first pint (or pints) of the day. One at a time, lass! This, I think, was in the Icelandic bar.
Later that evening, we headed for an Argentinian steakhouse, which were crackin'. It was quite fancy and we were probably a bit underdressed, but what the hell, eh? We were on holiday.
We picked one of those steaks for two which had varying levels of cookedness due to the thickness of the meat, or proximity to the bone. Not sure of the name. This bit wasn't really for eating but I gave it a gnaw anyway, if only for the photo opportunity. The food was very good.
Generally speaking, the food in Reykjavik is as you would expect in a contemporary capital, but there were a few more unusual foodstuffs. Icelanders are in favour of whale hunting and they do seem to like their whale peppersteak. It was not for us.
They do also eat puffin, which sort of belies this message. In the puffin we like to stuff rice and vegetables, or something, might be more appropriate.
Anyway, enough shuffling round the city centre, it's time for some tours. On the Friday, we headed out on our first excursion, which gave plenty of photo opportunities, here of a snow-capped mountain. In fact, whilst the majority of northern Europe had been covered in inches and inches of snow, Iceland remained relatively clear of the white stuff, thus prompting many Icelanders to head abroad for their annual skiing trip.
The first stop was the old parliamentary building, ρingvellir, where the Icelandic Parliament was founded in 930. Late in the 18th century, Parliament discontinued its use of this site and, in 1845, it was re-established in Reykjavik, apparently after a bitter struggle by Icelandic students at the University of Copenhagen. I think the president of Iceland still uses this as a retreat. Nice if you can get it.
Here is the long shot. Stunning.
This almighty crack in Earth's surface represents the point at which the two tectonic plates of Europe and America are drifting apart (at the rate of two metres per century, it says here).
This is essentially the chasm in between two continents, as the land is rent asunder. It's a bit like that bit from Superman.
And from the other side. Crack!
The dramatic landscape provided ample photo opportunities. On the left is the large lake near ρingvellir that is almost big enough to make you think you are near the sea. But not quite.
Next stop was the spectacular Gullfoss waterfall, the spray from which peppered us in the strong winds. The temperature had dropped significantly after the first couple of days and it was not warm out. Shades came in useful as a shield from the spray, not just blocking the sun.
It was possible to get progressively closer to the waterfall, offering some great views. It was so cold that, on the right hand side, the ice did not melt, despite being blasted by water.
I ventured down to the edge for a closer view, like a brave old sausage.
Not really - that's not me. I wasn't going (that) near it. Meanwhile, another spectacular mountain.
That will do for now.
Well, having skimmed through that again nearly six weeks later, I have added some wording in places, and I think it's now long enough to justify A Second Page. So rejoice mildly and click here, if you will.